Karl Lagerfeld, who has died at 85, was a master of fashion. There won't be any more like him.
卡尔·拉格菲尔德去世，享年85岁，他是一位时尚大师。不会再有像他这样的人了。
He joined Chanel in 1983, when it was languishing after the death of founder Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel.
他于1983年加入香奈儿，当时创始人可可·香奈儿(Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel)去世，香奈儿正处于衰落之中。
He quickly took it from classic to cutting edge.
他很快把它从经典变成了前沿。
Today, what was once associated with staid old ladies is now desired by young shoppers.
如今，那些曾经与稳重的老妇人联系在一起的东西，正受到年轻购物者的青睐。
His extravagant fashion shows encompassed everything from a floral fantasy to a faux street protest, burnishing the halo around the label.
他奢华的时装秀包罗万象，从花卉幻想到虚假的街头*，为品牌增光添彩。
He leaves another legacy, of a very different sort.
他留下了另一种截然不同的遗产。
Chanel is also a slick business that perfected a strategy known as category segregation:
香奈儿也是一个精明的企业，它完善了一种被称为品类隔离的策略:
offering very expensive pieces alongside cheaper items under the same label.
在同一品牌下，提供非常昂贵的商品和较便宜的商品。
He created the dream of owning a Chanel suit in order to sell not just pricey leather goods, but also affordable cosmetics —which enabled the company to ride the recent boom in demand for color cosmetics and skincare.
他创造了拥有一套香奈儿套装的梦想，不仅是为了*昂贵的皮具，还为了*价格实惠的化妆品——这使该公司能够抓住最近彩妆和护肤品需求激增的机遇。
While very few could afford items such as the shopping basket bag he created for the 2014 couture show, far more could manage a bottle of Chanel No. 5 perfume.
虽然很少有人买得起他为2014年的高级定制时装秀设计的购物篮包，但买得起一瓶香奈儿5号香水的人要多得多。
It's a difficult strategy to do well.
这是一个很难做好的策略。
Hermes International, for example, blurred the line between different price points by introducing cheaper models that sit alongside the highly priced, and hard to find, Kelly and Birkin bags.
例如，爱马仕国际(Hermes International)模糊了不同价格点之间的界限，在高价难买的Kelly和Birkin包旁边推出了更便宜的款式。
That doesn't seem to be damaging its status right now, but it is certainly a danger for the brand.
目前看来，这似乎并没有损害到它的地位，但对该品牌而言，这无疑是一种危险。
If there was any doubt Chanel was able to make this work, look no further than its report last year of just under $10 billion of sales, and a conservative valuation approaching $60 billion.
如果你对香奈儿做到这一点有任何怀疑的话，看看它去年的报告就知道了。该公司去年的*额略低于100亿美元，保守估计其估值接近600亿美元。
Changes are sure to come for the brand.
这个品牌肯定会发生变化。
Though Virginie Viard, Lagerfeld's deputy, will take over the creative reins,it is possible that for the longer term owners Alain and Gerard Wertheimer recruit a new designer.
尽管拉格菲尔德的副手维吉妮·维亚德(Virginie Viard)将接管创意大权，但从长期来看，老板阿兰·韦特海默(Alain Wertheimer)和杰拉德·韦特海默(Gerard Wertheimer)可能会招聘一位新的设计师。
That could provide an opportunity to breathe fresh life once more into Chanel.
这可能为香奈儿再次注入新的活力提供了机会。
Competition from Kering's Gucci and Balenciaga, and LVMH's Celine, is becoming more fierce.
来自开云集团(Kering)旗下的古驰(Gucci)和巴黎世家(Balenciaga)以及路威酩轩集团(LVMH)旗下Celine的竞争正变得越来越激烈。
The brand doesn't have a menswear division, and that could be a next step — but introducing it would also challenge the delicate high/low balance.
该品牌没有男装部门，这可能是下一步的计划——但引入男装也会挑战微妙的高低平衡。
The successor to Lagerfeld will be mindful of following in his hugely creative footsteps.
老佛爷的继任者会注意追随老佛爷极具创造力的脚步。
But his replacement will also need his ability to pick up the cultural zeitgeist, stay one step ahead, and retain the crucial juxtaposition between chic and cheap that worked so well.
但他的继任者还需要他的能力，即抓住文化时代精神，领先一步，并保持时髦与廉价之间的关键并列，这种并列非常有效。
